My license allows me to perform three classes of paving: in-situ (concrete, asphalt macadam, and synthetic), unit (brick, cobblestone, tile, slate, granite, etc.), and soft (aggregate, organic, turf, artificial turf), and as Murf explains, each has to be done right or it isn't worth being done. For the average aggregate drive, I start with a simple survey: shoot the grade. Then determine or estimate run-off, and evaluate the soil for perc. Design the plan view, mark for cut, and excavate. Typically, 24 inches deep, builtup in 6 - 8 inch lifts of one inch processed granite, compacting each lift to 4 to 6 inches below what will be finish grade. The top dress is usually dependent upon the type of pavement and can be the final paving in itself, such as half inch processed limestone or crusher run and portland 50/50 mix. Curbing, edging, drainage, and utilities all add to the price. A dozer or grader sure helps, but with determination and luck a healthy compact can make a decent showing for most of the work. However, for long term permanence, I think only a power roller will do for compaction. If done right, an aggregate drive will last longer than you think. Check your library for some simple guides such as H.L. Nichols' "Moving The Earth," and McGraw-Hill's "Landscape Architect's Portable Handbook." These are two references I'd be lost without, even after forty years landscaping.

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